"On disoit à Socrates que quelqu'un ne s'estoit aucunement amendé en son voyage: Je croy bien, dit-il, il s'estoit emporté avecques soy."
Montaigne, Essais, I, 39: "De la solitude"

"Oh there is blessing in this gentle breeze"
William Wordsworth, The Prelude, I, 1

mardi 5 août 2014

Österbybruk

The day began early with a bird call that really sounded like a honk.
Then, I cycled towards Lövstabruck, which is one of several Uppland villages that dealt with iron ore and were Very Important in the 17th and 18th century, because most of the iron needed in the world, for war and the rest, was produced there. Much was exported to Sheffield, England, for example. What's fun is that the people exploiting the mines were Waloons (notably the De Geer family), who introduced their own clever method of processing iron, and imported workforce. Lövstabruck is therefore a (preserved) Wallon village in the middle of Sweden, with its castle, church, and traces of hierarchical disposition of buildings around them. And, well, a delicious Swedish restaurant in front of the castle. Thanks to Kapil Raj for pointing out the existence of this village.
The road from Lövstabruck to Österbybruk is totally charming.
Now, all this precious iron came from Dannemora, where a gigantic iron mine was established. It's very deep. The nature of Dannemora is now a bit unclear, there are traces of the former trade that are preserved and presented as something of the past, but at the same time they're trying to resume the mining, so there's a kind of subdued industrial activity mixed with historicizing signs.
There's a village called Film. On the road, someone told me it was the name of a Viking king, and that it had nothing to do with films at all.
Apparently, otters can cross the road. Careful.
I saw familiar but strange trees... Oh, oaks ! It's been a while.
Even the ICA bears witness to the iron trade.
I wanted to camp at the campground, in good faith, but they were "closed" because of the "end of summer" festival taking place this week-end. So, I looked for a garden instead, and happily ended up at Madeleine and Niklas' place, who are here on holidays in the company of Lennart and Ann-Margret, Niklas' parents. I was offered very good smoked salmon and potatoes, and learnt about  Bruno Liljefors, and  Hans Gille, the famous nyckelharpa player who died two years ago, and occupied the house now owned by Madeleine and Niklas. Thanks!

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