"On disoit à Socrates que quelqu'un ne s'estoit aucunement amendé en son voyage: Je croy bien, dit-il, il s'estoit emporté avecques soy."
Montaigne, Essais, I, 39: "De la solitude"

"Oh there is blessing in this gentle breeze"
William Wordsworth, The Prelude, I, 1

samedi 2 août 2014

Edsäter (near Bergsjö)

The day began with raspberries straight from the bush. Thank you again, Sara!
I made it to Sundsvall, and was suprised to find what looked like Victorian buildings all around. I therefore obtained some information from local people. Apparently, Sundsvall is famous for having been destroyed by fire four times. The last time was in 1888, when nearly all buildings were burnt to ashes. The choice was made by the " timber barons " to rebuild the city with stones, and in a fancy way. Here is the result. Now Gustav II Adolph, who founded a wooden city in 1621, seems to wonder, as a statue, about all these bricks and stones.
Each summer, dragons appear in Sundsvall.  My favourite is, of course, the post-office dragon.
Nowadays, Sundsvall is known for its timber industry. Many factories can be seen along the coast.
First, I had to take the cycling lane that goes along the E4, then I took the beautiful kustevägen (coast road). Sometimes in bad repair and rather hilly but really worth it. I had a first lunch by the sea, and a second lunch by a lake.
At about 7.30pm, I looked for a place to camp. I ended up in the garden of Maria and Hans: we had delicious chocolate-and-nuts things that Maria had just prepared ("seems you were expected!" Hans said) and a fine conversation. Maria works as a cook in a hospital, and Hans works in a saw-mill. He used to be a truck-driver, drove everywhere in Sweden for twenty years, got tired of the roads, and chose to drive machines instead. He sometimes works evening shifts (3.30pm to 1am) but not night shifts, which are to depressing. (It took me some time to understand shifts, everyone I talked to seemed to work shifts! Then I realised that most industries and factories in Sweden never stop, so people are needed even at night.)
Hans says that it's a problem that the political decisions are taken in Stockholm. "They rise the price of oil and say, 'take the subway'. But how do I take a subway from here to the sawmill?" Hans therefore calls Stockholm leaders "subway people".
Then I took to straighten the rear wheel of my bike, which is never perfectly straight. Either it's round or straight but never both, a common problem. I know I need a special stand to put things right, but I still tried. Hans and Maria laughed at my vain and lengthy attempts to perfection. "Ok, leave it like that now. It's better. You need a bike shop for the rest". (In fact, tinkering with the spokes is an infinite task). At some point, I decided to leave well alone, as they say. But I'm not sure well is well: I know it will be warped again tomorrow. Oh, well, I'll do it again.
Eventually I was allowed to use the ground-floor couch for the night... Thanks!

Aucun commentaire:

Enregistrer un commentaire