When the boat arrived in Frederikshavn, the sun was shining - but a strong headwind blew.
When I wanted to buy the usual kannelbulle, I realized that 1) they don't have them in Denmark and 2) neither Swedish kroners nor euros were of any help... Time to adjust.
Despite the headwind, the road was very nice. And in the late afternoon I arrived to Jørgen and Edith's place, a wonderful house, surrounded by many animals and a luxuriant garden, with nor only chestnuts and apples, but also figs ans grapes. I am very impressed. And we had an excellent dinner with chicken, fresh beans and fresh potatoes. And chocolete-blueberry-bulle, even better than any kannelbulle! Thanks, Edith.
Montaigne, Essais, I, 39: "De la solitude"
"Oh there is blessing in this gentle breeze"
William Wordsworth, The Prelude, I, 1
jeudi 21 août 2014
Langhort (North of Aalborg)
Hejdå, Sverige! Hej, Danmark!
From the Frederikshavn-bound Stena boat, goodbye to Göteborg in the rain. Thanks to all who helped me in Sweden! I will come back.
mercredi 20 août 2014
Göteborg
I finally arrived in Göteborg, after much wind and rain and one 30km bus ride because really enough was enough.
Thanks, Chris and Magnus, for welcoming me two nights, and the wonderful food!
Et merci Nicole pour le conseil de Solrosen, et la longue promenade et conversation, les phoques sympathiques, et le kannelbulle GEANT!! (C'est merveilleux de trouver ses amis dans des pays un peu lointains).
There is much to say and show about Göteborg, but I'm leaving early tomorrow to Denmark... I wish I had more time to tell stories.
lundi 18 août 2014
samedi 16 août 2014
vendredi 15 août 2014
Kaxholmen (North of Jönkoping)
The day began with dazzling golden wheat ears.
Then my bike proudly posed in front of cryptic runes from the 9th century (Rökstenen). The wind blew hard from the south and progress was slow, but steady. I had lunch in Ödeshög.
I saw a sign that sounded like "rum and coke" but meant "room and food".
In pretty Gränna stands a statue of Per Brahe the Younger, 17th century statesman who introduced a postal system in Finland.
All day along gigantic lake Vättern. Some substantial rain. With the wind and no sun it's rather chilly. The sunlight makes an uncanny temperature difference.
In the evening, a sunlit scene of silently grazing cows appeared to me as the epitome of bliss, perhaps because I was high on snus. I decided it was time to rest, and at about 8pm pitched my tent near a small, quiet lake.
Real nights are back, and with them familiar stars. I mourn eternal sunshine while thankfully welcoming the big dipper and its companions.
jeudi 14 août 2014
Near lake Vättern, west of Vadstena
The day began with scything and bird-watching. Probably the best morning of the trip, thanks Jan!
Then to the Göta Kanal. At Ljungsbro I went to the Cloetta factory, where Kex Choklad is made!
The sky was multilayered for the whole day.
I took pretty small roads that were very inefficient but offered incredible views on the varied sky. I even took a road that was not a road. There were some small rain showers of no consequence.
The grass is being cut everywvere, and it is harvesting time in the fields. The air is full of warm smells and distant engine noises. I am camping near Vättern, the biggest lake in Sweden, the eastern coast of which I will follow tomorrow to go towards Jönköping - but on the way there I want to see some runes...