Burträsk

The morning began with very little pain, so I decided to set off towards Umeå. I was delighted by the quiet inland road, with few cars and a favorable breeze. 30km later, north of Burträsk, the tooth sharply reminded me that it was likely that another visit to the dentist would be necessary today. So I cycled back to Skellefteå (a city that was definitely hard to leave!) and went straight back to the dentist, who very fortunately had time for me, or very kindly took it. It has been much better since: thank you so much, Kevin and all the team of the Anderstorp Centre in Skellefteå, for time, good care, encouragements, discounts, and traveller-friendly toothpaste sample.

The rest of the day was obviously repetitive, since I took the same road (Skellefteå to Burträsk) three times, but very fine. The road looked different each time, first because of my own direction, and then due to the change of outward light and inward mood. I swam two times, once in the first lake, and the second time this evening, in Burträsk itself, which is a quiet and charming little town. Swimming in this weather is a delight because the lakes are warm at the surface and pleasantly cold deeper. I think happiness is swimming in a cold-and-yet-warm lake rippled by a soft summer breeze, after a reasonable day of cycling, in the near-total absence of a toothache.

Skellefteå (bis)

Stuck in Skellefteå because of the tooth. Beach (lake, grass) and novel. Will probably leave tomorrow and go towards Umeå.

Skellefteå

Today was unusually hot for Sweden: more than 32 degrees! People are in a very good mood, enjoying the sun, swimming, going around stripped to the waist.
Of course, on the E4, the hot sun is not that enjoyable. Unnerved by cars whizzing past and less and less manageable toothache, after many straight miles, I found a car to take me to Skellefteå, where I am now camping,  surrounded by much summer joy.
It feels like South, the sun is more or less setting.
From now on, riding with the sun in my face, more difficult to take pictures! And different sensations.

Luleå

The day began with a visit to the dentist. I read Anna Karenine in the waiting room for two hours. The dentist recognized there was a problem, but was not sure exactly where it came from (probably that tooth that doesn't respond well and aches, but looks perfect), so if I could survive on painkillers until the cause became clearer that would be great. I can.
Then I took the E4, which is efficient but not great because it's a quasi-highway. I made long detours to avoid it, but sometimes there's no choice...
I like mailboxes.
And old houses.
At the end of the afternoon I found a wonderful lake to swim in.
The shadows became longer and longer.
The air is full of the sunny scent of pines and the slimy smell of lakes.

Near Kalix

Finally crossed the border. Sweden looks very promising, sunny, even too hot. Camping near a lake, very kindly welcomed, and fed, by Hakan, who even called his daughter Katrin to welcome me near Luleå tomorrow.
Toothache becoming critical at times but still manageable.

Tornio/Haparanda

Näkemin, Suomi! Hej, Sverige! I am having a long, long picnic on the shore of the Torne älv, just a few pedal strokes away from the border, saying good-bye to Finland and preparing to enter Sweden. I am extremely grateful to the many people who helped me in Finland, I had a wonderful time thanks to all these encounters.
(There might be a pause in blogging unless I find a Swedish 3G sim card straight away.)

North of Kemi

Staying near my favourite river, the Kemijoki, the longest in Finland. Today was perfect, including the nice refreshing rain.
This morning, said good-bye to Fabian from Switzerland, my camping-ground neighbour who travels with a big backpack, and good-bye to Rovaniemi in the sun...
Hesitated between going North, North forever, or heading towards Sweden. As the wind was blowing  westward I took the second option. Soon I found a lake that confirmed it was a good choice. Then began the most incredible festival of clouds ever seen. This made me extremely happy for several hours. I finally asked for a place to camp at Seija's place, made very lively by two young daughters, Minja and Minka. We had ice-cream and they decided to occupy my tent, since I occupied their garden. The day is about to close without a sunset but with a delicious heavily-buttered karjalan pirakka.