"On disoit à Socrates que quelqu'un ne s'estoit aucunement amendé en son voyage: Je croy bien, dit-il, il s'estoit emporté avecques soy."
Montaigne, Essais, I, 39: "De la solitude"

"Oh there is blessing in this gentle breeze"
William Wordsworth, The Prelude, I, 1

vendredi 11 juillet 2014

Somewhere between Tempere and Ruovesi

Probably my best cycling day ever. Quiet, hilly, winding roads reminded me of Scotland - without the rain and less windy. In the morning I found these delicious tiny strawberries, what are they called? And filled a box of them. Later I found a quiet shore and swam, and it was as if the day had just begun. Up and down and up and down on earth roads - the tires remained valiant. Then in a glorious evening light I looked for a quiet place to sleep by a lake, and was invited to have dinner and stay over in one of the summer houses. I can't say it's entirely due to my newly-acquired Finnish skills (thanks Kat!) because the owners speak English,  but I am convinced these skills are necessary - although not sufficient.
The roads and the way they lead to places keep me busy. I don't have time for much else at the moment.
The rear deraileur is obviously and noisily at the end of its (long and respectable) mechanical life. I should find a new one, but were?
I'm trying to reach the north as fast as I can, because of the longer and longer days and also trying to make the most of the favourable weather which won't last forever.

jeudi 10 juillet 2014

Hammenlinna

To Hammenlinna through big and small roads. Small roads all but double distances but at least treble pleasure.

My bike fell and my compass broke. To make up for this loss I swam in the lake. Other families were there having fun, and I was invited to stay over. But it was only five o' clock, and I was in shape after swimming, so I reluctantly declined. In fact, after Hammenlinna (Sibelius's birthplace), it proved to be very difficult to find even a piece of lawn to pitch a tent. People are too surprised, are not used to being asked such things, and mostly don't speak English. It is urgent to learn enough Finnish to establish basic contact.

mercredi 9 juillet 2014

Helsinki

Many thanks to Mikko for hosting me and advising me on Finnish music.
I took a ferry to Suomenlinna, the fortified island, and admired the dry docks.
Helsinki has one botanical garden in two places. The "old" garden, Kaisaniemi, is just North of the railway station and the cathedral. Half of the garden is currently being re-designed and excavated, which makes it look somewhat similar to parts of the Calcutta garden. It doesn't have a banyan, but it does boast magnificent giant waterlilies.
The "new" garden, Kumpula, was born as an extension of the former garden, which felt cramped in the late 20th century. It has plants from all over the world, but only those pats of the world the climate of which is similar to Finland. Wicked!




mardi 8 juillet 2014

Tallinn

I spent four wonderful sunny ways in Tallinn. Thank you Chris and Kat for hosting and guiding me!
At the dance festival, the details and the big picture were mutually exclusive,  both equally impressive.
At the song festival the limit between the crowd and the stage was purposedly fuzzy.
Visiting the Tallinn botanic garden with Kat's polyglot grandma was a treat. There was even a banyan tree.
And then, at last, I swam in the Baltic sea at Tallinn's finest beach.

jeudi 3 juillet 2014

Rapla

Vent dans le dos depuis Pärnu. J'attends demain pour arriver à Tallinn, je m'arrête donc a Rapla, endroit joli avec une rivière au milieu. Je ne sais pas où je vais passer la nuit mais en attendant je m'abrite dans un café de l'orage qui s'est abattu tout soudain. Sur la route j'ai vu un arbre orange.

mercredi 2 juillet 2014

Pärnu

Belle journée vent dans le dos. Je m'arrête pour cueillir des fraises des bois et tremper mes pieds dans la mer.


Une chose près de la plage...


Je prends une route de terre pour échapper au grand axe Riga-Tallinn.

 J'arrive le soir à Pärnu, où je campe dans un beau jardin.


mardi 1 juillet 2014

Tuja

Journée très pluvieuse, mais je me trouve à présent dans un merveilleux camping tout a côté de la mer. J'ai passé la matinée à régler des problèmes de vélo et à chercher du matos plus sérieux pour la pluie. J'ai trouvé de la Borjomi comme en Georgie ! Les dames du supermarché n'ont pas compris mes cris de joie. Il est presque 22h30 et il ne fait pas encore très sombre.
J'ai visité, sur ma route, un incroyable musée du vélo...
Je rentre dans ma tente car le vent marin est frais.