Probably my best cycling day ever. Quiet, hilly, winding roads reminded me of Scotland - without the rain and less windy. In the morning I found these delicious tiny strawberries, what are they called? And filled a box of them. Later I found a quiet shore and swam, and it was as if the day had just begun. Up and down and up and down on earth roads - the tires remained valiant. Then in a glorious evening light I looked for a quiet place to sleep by a lake, and was invited to have dinner and stay over in one of the summer houses. I can't say it's entirely due to my newly-acquired Finnish skills (thanks Kat!) because the owners speak English, but I am convinced these skills are necessary - although not sufficient.
The roads and the way they lead to places keep me busy. I don't have time for much else at the moment.
The rear deraileur is obviously and noisily at the end of its (long and respectable) mechanical life. I should find a new one, but were?
I'm trying to reach the north as fast as I can, because of the longer and longer days and also trying to make the most of the favourable weather which won't last forever.
Montaigne, Essais, I, 39: "De la solitude"
"Oh there is blessing in this gentle breeze"
William Wordsworth, The Prelude, I, 1
vendredi 11 juillet 2014
Somewhere between Tempere and Ruovesi
jeudi 10 juillet 2014
Hammenlinna
To Hammenlinna through big and small roads. Small roads all but double distances but at least treble pleasure.
My bike fell and my compass broke. To make up for this loss I swam in the lake. Other families were there having fun, and I was invited to stay over. But it was only five o' clock, and I was in shape after swimming, so I reluctantly declined. In fact, after Hammenlinna (Sibelius's birthplace), it proved to be very difficult to find even a piece of lawn to pitch a tent. People are too surprised, are not used to being asked such things, and mostly don't speak English. It is urgent to learn enough Finnish to establish basic contact.
mercredi 9 juillet 2014
Helsinki
I took a ferry to Suomenlinna, the fortified island, and admired the dry docks.
Helsinki has one botanical garden in two places. The "old" garden, Kaisaniemi, is just North of the railway station and the cathedral. Half of the garden is currently being re-designed and excavated, which makes it look somewhat similar to parts of the Calcutta garden. It doesn't have a banyan, but it does boast magnificent giant waterlilies.
The "new" garden, Kumpula, was born as an extension of the former garden, which felt cramped in the late 20th century. It has plants from all over the world, but only those pats of the world the climate of which is similar to Finland. Wicked!
mardi 8 juillet 2014
Tallinn
I spent four wonderful sunny ways in Tallinn. Thank you Chris and Kat for hosting and guiding me!
At the dance festival, the details and the big picture were mutually exclusive, both equally impressive.
At the song festival the limit between the crowd and the stage was purposedly fuzzy.
Visiting the Tallinn botanic garden with Kat's polyglot grandma was a treat. There was even a banyan tree.
And then, at last, I swam in the Baltic sea at Tallinn's finest beach.
jeudi 3 juillet 2014
Rapla
mercredi 2 juillet 2014
mardi 1 juillet 2014
Tuja
J'ai visité, sur ma route, un incroyable musée du vélo...
Je rentre dans ma tente car le vent marin est frais.










